Jugetsu Ginza Kabukiza, Tokyo JAPAN

In August last year, I had a few days to myself in Japan to explore the city, something I have been meaning to do but never did get the opportunity. Making my way around Narita airport felt akin to walking around Melbourne CBD in terms of familiarity and soon enough, I transported myself to the heart of Tokyo, ready to check-in and explore.

Knowing that I was a bit early to check into my hotel room, I headed to Jugetsu Ginza Kabukiza which was located about 10 minutes by foot from the hotel. Unfortunately, the blazing summer heat made it unbearably hot and I appeared rather flushed upon entering the premises. 

The menu comprised of a few sweet treats in addition to a good selection of drinks to enjoy with it. After gulping down two cups of water, I proceed to order a rich matcha drink which came accompanied by a little sweet wagashi (traditional Japanese sweet) filled with red bean paste. 

Yes, there were other options to sample but being a solo traveller, I wanted to save my tummy space for other prospective treats scattered around Tokyo. My cup of matcha was certainly rich and had an almost syrup like texture; not everyone's cup of tea but was a good contrast to its sweeter companion. 

Upon finishing off the last sip, the waiter then poured some water into the matcha bowl before giving it a good whisk to evenly mix the remaining matcha into a lighter cup of tea. Ahhh the simple pleasures of life extended by another drink.

Decorated by polished bamboo branches and overlooking a small, tidy garden, the cafe itself is designed to look like an escape away from the bustling city. Would happily go back again granted the opportunity and not only sample other items on their menu, but also to purchase more tea from their shop. Tea may cost slightly more compared to those available at the markets but it's quality is undeniable. Oh they do also sell snacks which I too endeavour to try in the future. 
 

Japan: Red Rock Harajuku TOKYO

My first trip to Japan saw me heading to Harajuku once but this time, I managed to get about three visits here, equalling to three opportunities to sample something new.

Yes, Tokyo is a very busy city and chances of dining in a popular restaurant at peak meal hours is almost impossible. To avoid disappointment, I would suggest queuing up about 10 to 15 minutes before the restaurant opens.

The line for this restaurant was bearable when we arrive which meant we get an early lunch to keep us fuelled for the rest of the day's itinerary. Ordering is done at the ticket vending machine and tickets are handed to staff members prior to being seated.

American cut steak don - not sure what glaze was used here but it bumped up this dish's aesthetic by a 1000 times. In essence, it is a very simple dish but done right aka good quality cut of beef and fragrant sauce used.

American slice beef don - the restaurant's most popular item and I can understand why. Lightly seared prior to being sliced, the meat already has a fragrant aroma wafting through it and the addition of an egg yolk and a squeeze of mayonnaise toned down the intensity slightly, making it a creamy affair. Slices of beef was neatly layered over a small mountain of steamed rice. This would change any vegetarian's perspective of meat and a must try in Harajuku.

Japan: Uobei Sushi Dogenzaka TOKYO

Second time in Tokyo and this time, I wanted to test out as many conveyor belt sushi outlets possible. Had been out shopping and knowing that I would end up in the Shibuya area, it was fortunate that Uobei sushi is within walking distance albeit having to navigate through a few smaller streets.

Priced at 108yen for most plates, there are a few limited selection plates that can range from 200 to 250yen. Each customer is designated their own ordering ipad and a maximum of 3 items can be ordered at a time, enabling the mini trains to accommodate accordingly.

There are three train tracks in this outlet and they do move very quickly so be careful to avoid injuries (or wasting food). Once diners have removed their plates of sushi from the train, merely press the release button which will send the train back to the kitchen.

Verdict? Definitely a lot more affordable compared to eating in Australia. The bill came up to approximately 20aud per person and we were quite well fed. Won't say that these are the finest cuts in Japan but for the price tag attached, I can't fault them and would happily navigate around Shibuya to get here.

Japan: Otaru, HOKKAIDO

Located about an hour out of Sapporo, Otaru is a small town utilized as a trade and fishing port in the 1800s, where to this day, many old warehouses and former trade office buildings are preserved. Welcomed by the aroma of freshly baked bread from a bakery strategically situated in the train station, my eyes were fixed on the glass works displayed at the entrance.

Aside from it's picturesque canals reminiscence of a stroll into it's past, Otaru's glass industry had superseded its declining herring industry and is now one of it's main attractions. Each attraction is easily located within walking distance from each other. Just mind the slippery patches of ice dangerously hidden underneath a thin blanket of snowflakes. Oh the countless number of times I had almost slipped and embarrass myself.

Start off with a walk along the canals which will lead you to Sakaimachi Street aka the shopping street loaded with souvenirs and restaurants. I have spent a great deal of time in Kitachi's hair accessory shop, mostly refraining myself from overspending.

Worthwhile noting that this company has quite a few shops streamed along Sakaimachi, each with a different theme such as household decoration or kitchenware. Pick one that you would really want to see else you might never leave Otaru.

Whilst some reviewers have raved about it's local cuisine, I won't really recommend coming here if you are after the ultimate bowl of chirashizushi don or sashimi platter. Fresh it was but I did not think it was different compared to the ones I have tried in metropolitan areas.

Last spot was the Music Box museum, a place that I found therapeutic and reminded me of my childhood immensely. I have always related music to my memories be it joyous or unpleasant and felt at home here as I slowly recall certain life scenes.

Will be back and next time, I shall attempt to conquer Mt. Tengu as well as to witness the snow light path event:)

Japan: Convenience store hyped

Landed in Narita airport late evening and by the time the sister and I managed to check into our accommodation, it was close to 9pm. Too late for a proper meal, we walked around the neighbourhood and went into a convenient store.

Convenient stores are where locals can be seen picking up a snack or meal, along with other necessities, in the nick of time. The sister and I have visited both Family Mart and 7-11 for supper. Priced about ¥100-¥200 cheaper as opposed to eating at a sit in restaurant, portion size is reasonable and taste is agreeable.

Cashiers usually offer to microwave your food for you at no charge. Choose from bento boxes filled with rice, chicken and a bit of pickles to takeaway containers of noodles or for a lighter meal, perhaps a savoury bun or an onigiri (rice ball with filling). For completion, milder content alcoholic beverages are readily available or for tourists like me, a refrigerated green tea drink will do the trick. 

Japan: Fugetsu restaurant, OSAKA

Reknown to be Japan’s kitchen, Osaka is an excellent hub for sampling various Japanese street food snacks, all usually located within walking distance from each other in Dotonbori. Large shopping streets, a congress of both accessories, clothing and food shops, provides a bit of shelter from the heavy human traffic dispersed along the entire Dotonbori pathway.

When we got told to come back a bit later for our Matsusaka beef fix, the sister suggested we reward ourselves with okonomiyaki, a type of Japanese pancake, at a busy restaurant located in one of Dotonbori’s shopping streets.  We patiently waited for about 10 minutes before being ushered downstairs into a restaurant, no bigger than the width of two king sized mattresses, plastered by a bright coloured orange wall on one side and an assortment of Japanese calligraphy on the other.

 There is a minimum spend per dine-in customer and after surveying nearby tables, it appeared that the okonomiyaki served, be it added with seafood or poultry, can be quite a big meal for small eaters like us. Determined, we went ahead and ordered ourselves one serve of it with a small side of chicken appetizers. Our waiter returned after about 5 minutes with a bowl of finely shredded cabbage, possibly lightly coated with flour and begun to rhythmically beat in an egg before pouring the mixture onto the heated hot plate in front of us.

Throughout the cooking duration, the waiter returned after a few minutes to check on the okonomiyaki’s doneness and flipped it over when due, topping it with a handful of fine shreds of bonito. Once both sides have been cooked, he then brushed over a sweet, sticky looking brown coloured sauce over it followed suit by a lashing of mayonnaise.

Piping hot yet still holding a firm shape, we slowly consumed this humble Japanese dish before jetting off to meet our other friend. Consisting mostly of fiber, one may see it as a healthy meal, quite tasty when combined with the sweet sauce and a touch of cheesy tasting mayonnaise.  

Japan: Izakayas in TOKYO

Izakayas are a typical Japanese bar offering diners a selection of seasonal produces with an envious range of alcoholic beverages. A form of stress relief and social interaction, locals crawl here after work on just about every other day of the week and often spend prolonged hours happily “kanpai”-ing (a toasting term) and singing local tunes.

Some izakayas may specialize in serving yakitori (think grilled skewers) as it is pairs well with alcohol whilst others may choose to house fresher produces like sushi. A walk along Omoide Yokocho (piss Alley) in Shinjuku can be an eye opener for those curious enough to see but not step into one. Vibrant coloured LED lighting is used as a backdrop for their menus, usually written on manila paper.

Photographing unsuspecting models is not recommended here and may lead to minor berating. English is still rarely used in Japan and most menus do not have English translations. Having a local show you the local customaries would be beneficial but if all else fails, don’t be afraid to gesticulate with a staff.

Japanese are approachable in nature provided that mannerism has not been compromised. The only thing that may surprise you at the end is the total bill, a price that truly reflects the quality of food provided, not the owner’s attempt at taking advantage of foreign customers.

Izakayas are small establishments in general, encouraging diners to mingle with each other when in close proximities, especially when seated at the bar counter. It is fairly common for a stranger to approach you and spark conversations, especially after a few drinks to lighten the environment.

 Not a meal that I would have often although a bad week might render a sooner than expected visit. Certainly something to look forward to in Japan and as always, plenty of recommendations available from the internet.

Japan: Cheap eats

Contrary to popular beliefs of exuberantly priced meals in Japan, just like any other city, it’s all about knowing where to eat amidst the labyrinth. After all, not everybody can afford higher end meals (unless if you’re born with a silver spoon in your mouth). Sigh, the number of times I caught myself squandering around the clearance food section in supermarkets prior to pay day.

These cheap eateries have meals starting from ¥500 to about ¥800 and again, vending machines are utilized for ordering and cash transactions. After a tiring excursion, the sister and I ducked into this unknown eatery located along the busy streets of Shinjuku. A bowl of oyakodon topped with shredded seaweed and a plate of tonkatsu with curry and rice fed us well that night.

Another one of these cheap eateries located near our hotel in Kyoto made its way into our food diary as we headed here, once again, after a weary day out. Propped on a stool near the kitchen, we slurped up a bowl of kitsune udon, munched into a few pieces of golden chicken karaage and spooned out beef don with slivers of scallion scattered in it atop a bed of vinegar-ed rice.

While these were the only two cheap and fast paced eateries that we have been to, others such as Coco curry house and Yoshinoya are vastly available in most cities, also offering the same affordable and quick food concept.

Japan: Rokurinsha Tokyo Ramen Street, TOKYO

Shortage of time is a major issue among the Japanese considering that commuting for work and prolonged working hours take up at least 10 hours in a day, making it easy to dismiss the thought of running to a shop for a gift or to have a decent meal. From my two weeks of holiday in Japan, this was evident to me.

Ranging from sleep deprived to diligent spectacled, newspaper reading employees to the occasional flamboyantly dressed character out of a manga comic, of which, nobody seems to bat an eye at – everyone squeezes into the train in an attempt at avoiding having to wait for subsequent ones. Once we arrive at the Tokyo station, our eyes lit with excitement.

Crowded, yes but just like the other main stations that houses a JR line, it is well equipped with a delicious array of restaurants and specialty shops bearing gifts and souvenirs. I can see how the Japanese save time in a train station. Ah, how excited we were at the prospect of fuelling our exhausted souls.

Noting a line up outside this restaurant, we immediately jumped into the queue out of curiousity. And like any other main train station, free wifi is available, much to the delight of the researcher in me. Turned out this restaurant is renowned for their tsukemen (ramen consumed after dipping in a separate bowl of soup).

Flavour soft boiled egg dip noodles – bundled up neatly, the noodles were prepared al dente. Dipping it into the accompanying broth softened up its texture slightly, making it much easier for slurping.

For variety sake, we ordered a bowl of ramen in broth that comes served with pickled bamboo shoots pork meat, generously topped with fine slices of spring onions. Again, delicious and pork broth had a delectable flavour depth to it.

At $10 for a good portion of noodles and a thick slab of protein, I can see why the Japanese would brave the meal time crowd and queue up for a spot here.

Japan: Fukuoka wandering

Final destination on our Japan itinerary and one that we used to recuperate ourselves mentally and physically. Wandered around a park admiring purple wisterias dangling from the rooftop, a scene that reminded us of a painting brought to life.

So the glutton in us were eyeing Mister Donut for the longest time (I blame the numerous train stations we have been to) but often, were reserved when it came to deciding on a purchase. Walked outside the Fukuoka JR train station, made a few left turns, passed far too many ramen outlets and we stumbled upon this bakery again.

This time round, the shop was clearing it's donuts and priced accordingly - the sister  dashed towards the shop, bought half a dozen of them for our post-dinner snack. Donuts were fluffy, light and dressed with the right amount of sweetness from each bite. I can see why it's popular among the locals.